Welcome to the world of Max Garrone.
Made in San Francisco, California.

The hits, they just keep coming

01.06.20 Posted in Food by

With yet another local Italian specialty spot closing, this time in Eureka, it’s starting to feel like the old world won’t be around much longer. The nostalgia factor is driving plenty of revisionist red sauce restaurants but where’s the soul in that?


Diluting the brand

11.12.19 Posted in Food by

California Olive Ranch is big. They have at least 13,000 acres of olives in Northern California and have been aggressively marketing their bottles as reasonably priced local olive oil. It seems to have been successful, visit markets of a certain ilk and you’ll see their bottles. But this weekend I noticed that they’re no longer […]


No respect for your elders

10.18.19 Posted in Food, San Francisco by

Riffing off yesterday’s post about the new restaurant critics and catching up in general, Soleil Ho’s take down of Le Colonial is a such a picture of generation shift. There’s no respect for one of Willie Brown’s favorite restaurants because it’s an amusement park confection of colonialism. Brown’s SF used to be something to aspire […]


The culinary conversation’s next generation

10.17.19 Posted in Food by

Just when you thought that the culinary conversation had congealed into listicles along come the new voices to guide the conversation. The new culinary critics bring fresh perspectives that are the fruits of their youth and identities, many are female and come from a variety of backgrounds. And, it feels like they’re all pressing one […]


A cork encounter

10.07.19 Posted in Food by

My latest shipment of Birichino arrived with the usual cast of bottles from California’s hidden vineyards. It’s truly a remarkable project that consistently surprises with experiments and winemaking that finds unique expression. But the thing that really caught my eye was the quarterly missive which included the following coda: A FEW WORDS ON CLOSURE Lastly, […]


Today’s the big day

04.30.19 Posted in Food by

It’s your last chance to indulge in Lucca’s (full name Lucca’s Ravioli Company) traditional Italian deli because they’re closing today at 6PM. I’ve paid my respects a few times since the announcement but it’s still a sad occasion because resources like this never come back. New shops mean new visions and that old time idea is […]


My how times change

04.29.19 Posted in Food by

Things have been changing so much in SF lately that the old laments are just getting boring. Tomorrow Lucca’s closes. Jardiniere just closed. God knows how many other places have done the same in recent months. And then there are the changes within institutions. This past week we dropped into Cotogna partially because they made […]


The languages of cooking

04.24.19 Posted in Food, Italy by

It’s spring so my garden plot is overflowing with leafy greens. The nettles are making it dangerous for anyone in shorts, the favas are bursting to the sky, and it’s been difficult to keep up with the arugula. And that’s just half of it. Given the bounty I’ve been searching high and low for recipes […]


Dinosaur restaurants or nostalgia for those old time spreads

04.17.19 Posted in Food by

If you wander north of the Golden Gate through Western Marin and Sonoma you’ll run across the culinary remains of the immigrants who settled there from the late 19th and well into the 20th centuries. Dotting many of the small towns are classic Italian dining rooms that feature set ups, hearty pastas, and meats. Some […]


Putting your money where your maiz is

04.10.19 Posted in Food by

It’s great to see such a prominent local Mexican restaurant not only making their own masa but using Oaxacan corn. El Molino Central has been quite a project so it’s gratifying to see all those lines out the door. It’s even more gratifying to see them put their money into supporting native corn species in […]